Piedmont Region - "Grandi Salumi" of Gambero Rosso 2023
In a panorama incredibly full of sublime gastronomic traditions such as that of Piedmont, cured meats have a supporting role, at least apparently. Not for the lack of excellence but for the overwhelming level of quality expressed by local wine, beef, dairy or chocolatier production. If the certified typical products do not reflect the quality or production diversification of an area, it is however good to remember that it is no coincidence that 3 of the 5 PDO and LGP certifications present in the region are shared with very large multi-regional areas (the production area of the Cacciatore salami includes 12 regions...). We therefore find the only local products being PDO raw ham from Cuneo, also produced in the provinces of Asti and Turin, and PGI Piedmont salami. There are 7 Piedmontese DOP cheeses: a significant difference. Not to mention the gap with wine production, which includes 48 Docs and Docgs. Piedmontese cured meat production, however, is characterized by the use of a moderate quantity of salt for the preservation of both cooked and raw products, a distinctive trait that originates from the fact that the oldest cured meat factories are located along the ancient "roads of salt". Having said this, however, it would be a crime not to consider as significant many local productions which, despite not having a certification or a reference consortium, still offer originality, interest and production quality to sell. The mustardela from the Waldensian Valleys and the Gavi box head, for example, have been a Slow Food Presidium for years and attract the attention of various national and international operators for their expressiveness. And from the highly prized regional beef come cured meats, for example smoked beef, which are increasingly interesting and characterised. In the far north of Piedmont there are the significant and noteworthy hams of Val d'Ossolo and Val Vigezzo, while in Verbano, in the area of Cusiobassa Valsesia, but also in the Vercellese and Novara areas, we have fidighin, or mortadella d 'Orta, the local liver mortadella never so tasty and expressive; it is a PAT product and is offered in both raw and cooked versions. We must not forget the very original and unique fillet oil kissed, a pork fillet wrapped in the minced salami paste typical of Ponzone, in the province of Alessandria. The union between the great local wines, be they Barolo or Barbera, or with truffles or chestnuts, gives life to products which, in addition to industry, are increasingly finding space among small, high-quality artisanal producers. So salamis and coppa characterized by strong and particular aromas appear on the market. The taste and vocation of Piedmontese delicatessen are still in full growth phase: it must be solicited with confidence, both in institutional terms (for example, the Piedmont Salami Consortium was founded in 2006) and, above all, by the market. It is obvious, then, to consider that both traditional and creative cuisine give rise, in regional catering, to increasingly interesting combinations of excellent local products: from dishes to combinations, Piedmont is equipped with a palette of infinite variations of taste capable of stimulating and enchanting even the most demanding palates.